Obviously, there is the worry of distance. I realize I am quite fortunate in being less than three hours from my friends and family, across a land border between two friendly countries with no visa requirements. Really, barring any prior dinner plans, a felony conviction, or lack of a travel document, there is nothing keeping friends and family in the far-northern United States and Canada from visiting each other, now that pandemic restrictions have lifted. The same can't always be said for people who make the choice to move across oceans, time zones, cultures.
In case you haven't caught on by now, bridging the gap of understanding between two countries is kind of ~my thing~, so it probably comes as a surprise to no one that I took this occasion of Syd and I's anniversary/my birthday/me preparing to move soon to take my American family on a little field trip.
Now, full disclosure: most of my family has been to Canada before. But most people just go with the idea of being a tourist in mind, and not really taking in some of the differences (or similarities) they see. My hope was that because this is where I will be living and where they will (hopefully) be spending more time, they would use this trip as an opportunity to make some observations about "Canadiana." I hope to do more of these in the future to share my other friends'/family's perspectives, but for our first time with outsiders out and about in the Thousand Islands region of eastern Ontario, here's what they told me about it:
1. It's clean
"The motel was so clean and everything worked."
"These restaurants are so clean."
"The streets and the parks are so clean here; there's no litter anywhere."
Because I like to speculate, I'll say that Ontario is so clean, at least in part, because of a cultural difference on the idea of cleanliness. By this, I don't mean that every Canadian you pass by is a neat-freak Good Samaritan who picks up every scrap of litter they see. But rather, the aggregate of the population here just seems to not produce as much litter. There also just seems to be a cultural propensity for cleanliness that drives decision-making about cleaning. Like, the idea of several tables left un-bussed, or a floor left unswept on a Saturday night, would drive any well-meaning restaurant manager crazy, and so, despite there being worldwide labor and supply shortages, there is no noticeable shortage of supplies or time to clean. This is not to say Americans are all dirty slobs, but I will say that litter and waste are more of an afterthought to people in my hometown who want to do good, whereas people around here think and talk about cleanliness in very conscious, careful ways. You saw this even before the pandemic, but the pandemic makes it more noticeable: not only are there still a lot of masks around, but also a lot of hand washing stations, sanitizer kiosks, contactless and low-waste interactions, and more trash cans available in public places.
2. It's pricey
"The cost of living seems so much higher."
"Everything here is outrageous."
There are lots of economic explanations as to why the price differences: higher transportation costs since it's such a big and inhospitable country for truckers, higher distribution costs since there's a smaller population of people buying the stuff and labels must also be specially printed in English and French, import taxes and fees levied by the government, the list goes on. Some theorize there is no reason at all, other than Canadians are just used to paying more for things and have been for years, so companies can get away with it.
But I digress. At the end of the day, an extra 30 cents for a tube of toothpaste or an extra $1.50 for a beer are pretty mild, middle-of-the-road markups to pay compared to most European countries. The difference has also gotten a lot less noticeable very recently, because of our dear old friend inflation. Prices have been skyrocketing in both countries, but the U.S. has caught up to Canadian price tags for a lot of goods. In fact, after the exchange rate, you might even get a deal. Which brings me to their next observation...
3. How money works
"Do they take American money?"
"Do they take real money?"
"How will I know how much this costs in real money?"
"Shouldn't they want it? Isn't it worth more to them?"
"Will this mess up your [cash] drawers?"
The first thing you should know is that nowadays, you don't need to have Canadian cash to buy things in Canada. In fact, some might argue it's better if you didn't, as Canada quickly is moving towards is a cashless society. You can easily use your home debit or credit card* and you don't even need to worry about anything; your bank converts the transaction for you and you don't even know how much a purchase "really" was until you look at your statement or bank website later that day. As a general rule, when you look at Canadian prices, think of everything in the entire store being 20-25% off. See something for $100 CAD? It's going to cost you $75-80 USD. $5 CAD? Think $3.50. Just get into that discounting mindset. If you're like me--someone who is actually living and working with Canadian dollars in daily life, this may be a skill that does more harm than good, but if you're just an American who is freaking out about the cost, give yourself some peace of mind.
If you DO choose to use cash, that's fine. But do not assume everybody is going to take American money. Once again, it's a mindset thing. Some Americans who spend time in tourist areas get the impression that everybody just takes American currency, maybe because they think it's worth so much? The reality is that many tourist locations do so as a courtesy, to avoid missing out on the Almighty dollar, and also to avoid the debacles that can ensue when tourists come unprepared without any other way to pay.
Honestly, Canada has really bent over backwards in the way they handle Americans, accepting American currency in probably the majority of stores I've been in. But it's not as easy as it looks. It's often a patchwork of company policies, manager overrides, calculating an exchange rate (or not, and just giving you Canadian change back), messing up small businesses' books, creating a long line of people behind you and making you (hopefully) feel embarrassed. Long story short, you paying in a different country's currency isn't as simple as "you should take this because it's worth more". It should be a last resort, and you should not have high expectations for the experience. Honestly, if you need cash, just go to a gas station ATM and get Canadian cash out; they will take your debit card and the flat fee at ATMs is usually $2-$4 compared to a bank or third-party currency exchange giving you Lord knows what exchange rate.
For the record, my family made a smart choice and used their debit and credit cards without issue.
*Cards issued by banks or credit unions should have no trouble. If your card is issued by directly a credit card company (Discover or AMEX), these are less common. Have a backup card or cash and ask the merchant if they take Discover or AMEX before trying to use it.
4. The food
Food is always a crucial part of a travel experience. Here's some things about dining in Ontario:
- Pizza. Let's talk about pizza. Now, I'm not from New York City, but if you're not in New York City and you want pizza, Upstate New York is your next best bet. I've had some damn good pizza in my life. You've got your New York Style: thin and floppy; Chicago style: hearty and savory; Detroit style: crunchy, chewy, and buttery. And everything else in between. But Canadian pizza (or rather, pizza of the Windsor-Quebec City Corridor?) is a bit of a different beast. Round, pliable, and relatively thin, it somewhat resembles New York style, but with some unpredictable twists. You won't find greasy, crispy pepperoni discs on this pizza. Instead, "pepperoni" is the thin, deli-sliced sandwich stuff, placed under the cheese in large slices. (American hack: just order the pepperoni on top; it's way better). Similarly, what Americans know as "sausage" might not always be so. Instead of getting that spiced meaty crumble they are so accustomed to, it may instead be a mild Polish link chopped up in pieces, resembling your toddler's hot dog. Want bacon? Whole strips it is. Even the cheese itself may be unfamiliar at first, as even though it is still mozzarella, there is something about it that makes it a bit less stretchy and salty, and more...well, cheesy?
- Anyway, the point about pizza, and any food really, is that it has the potential to be very good. But also not. Pay attention to the reviews and the vibe you get from places. A lot of places around here are famous for pizza and poutine, or pizza and shawarma (Middle Eastern cuisine is popular around here for some reason, story for another day). Follow the old rule of thumb: if a place sells two vastly different cuisines of food, it's probably not very good at either of them.
- Keep an open mind, and adjust your expectations. As a general rule, portions are going to be smaller. Sorry guys. Now, I don't mean unreasonably smaller. I just mean, you know those places around you, they're usually the beloved local dives, the ones with some kind of "eating challenge" where if you eat the 25-pound burger you get a t-shirt, the places where the portions are just big for the sake of being big? Yeah, those aren't really a thing around here. But also, meals generally aren't served with three different sides or cheap add-ons that are as big as the entrée. Frankly, I'm thankful for having made this adjustment because I think the American way encourages people to make decisions for themselves that are at-best questionable. "Well the bread is unlimited, right? I HAVE to get my money's worth" [Proceeds to eat until they're doubling over in pain]. Instead of gorging yourself on a pizza tray of loaded fries, maybe take the added stomach room to branch out and try something new. It doesn't necessarily have to be poutine (though they'd really like it to be).
- My family really loved:
- Snack foods (especially Hickory Sticks and After Eight)
- barbecue from Montana's
- Italian fare from East Side Mario's
"This is the freshest Subway sub I've ever had!"
"They have a lot more lighter options here, and better looking ones."
"The portions were smaller, but they were so delicious I ate every bite and was satisfied."
"That's no pizza sausage I've ever seen."
[confused look on face] "No, I don't want gravy on my fries?"
5. The affection for discount stores
If I were to venture a guess as to the why, a few reasons come to mind: first, the generally high cost of living here makes for natural bargain-hunters. Second, Canada's aging population is increasing, as are its minority and immigrant populations. This means an increase in population of groups who have been historically economically disadvantaged and more likely to have a fixed income or rely on assistance programs. Third, a lot of these store chains are owned by...other store chains, giving them an opportunity to increase and diversify their retail footprint, and lower prices at one chain while keeping them consistent at the other, essentially owning the market and giving people at least the illusion of a good deal. All of this has created a "thrifty" culture, too. Following the lead of other countries, thrifting has become trendy in Canada, and it's also not uncommon to see yard sales and free furniture along the roadside quite often, which we saw a lot of last weekend.
At any rate, if you like deals, discount goods, and thrifting, Ontario can really be a fun shopping trip. My family had a blast!
6. It's beautiful
"Wow, this is such a nice area!"
"Look at that beautiful brickwork."
"It's so pristine."
"Beautiful."
The views up-close of the St. Lawrence River are stunning, and we saw many of those, but I also like to find beauty in the little things. Kingston is known as the Limestone City for its vast deposits of the stuff, which has led to some uniquely beautiful and characteristic limestone architecture around the city.
Similarly, brickwork is popular around Ontario. I'm not sure if it's just a stylistic preference of people around here, or maybe if there is some sort of usefulness of bricks protecting against harsh weathers here, but you will notice that most houses in Ontario are made of brick or stone (at least the façade), rather than the wood-framed houses with vinyl siding that are typical of the northern U.S. I have always loved the aesthetic of brick, which blends quite beautifully with the nature of the region. Ontario Highway 2, the scenic main road that runs along the shoreline of Lake Ontario, is a beautiful drive any time of year, and you can take in some of the province's best sights, including the homes and historic business districts.
Kingston as well as the town of Gananoque offer day sightseeing cruises of the river area, which operate seasonally. The Kingston line was still in full swing for late October, which surprised me, and we had a lovely time on the hour-long iteration of the ride. There's trolley rides and walking tours for land-dwellers, too! Some of my family members have mobility issues, and they had absolutely no trouble with any of the activities.
Final thoughts
I bring this up because Ontario is an opportunity for more of that...but different. Allow me to explain. Maybe you love the boring little quirks that make up Middle America: the ghost tours, the pedal boat rides, the picturesque brownstones, but you feel like you've seen them all already. Ontario is a lot of the same--to other people in Ontario--but just a little bit of difference from that dominating American monoculture that it may pique your interest. Instead of getting the same old song and dance, maybe learn about the world from a non-American perspective, from the comfort of an American-style setting. For example, do you know about the crucial role Kingston played in the War of 1812, against the United States, or the role it played as the first capital of Canada? Or how about the importance of the Thousand Islands in the development of Canada as a country during events you may know, such as European settlement of the Thirteen Colonies, the American Revolution, or Prohibition? Or maybe, you don't care about any of that and just want to try some new food or shop at some stores you can't get at home, stay in a clean hotel in a quiet town with a slower pace of life and some curiosities to take in.
Some Americans reading this are probably thinking, "but why would I care about non-American things?" Well first of all, Canadian and American heritage are so closely intertwined that Canada actually affects you in more ways than you might realize. This is something I write about academically and hope to bring more of to you all on the blog. But secondly, don't be a stick in the mud. There doesn't have to be a reason to try new things. It's an inexpensive, low-pressure and low-prep day trip for anybody in border states, and if you do want to stay the night, accommodations for stays outside of the big cities and peak holidays are very reasonable--and clean. My family had a great time over two days in Eastern Ontario in late October. Yours could too!
For my Canadian friends: what are some things here that are important to your area, that you think visitors should experience? What do out-of-towners often observe about your hometown, its culture or its landscape? My American friends: have you ever been to the Thousand Islands region? What did you observe that sets it apart from other places you've been?